Chapter Fifteen: Forget All You Have Seen Here Before
Buhoma Sweet Buhoma
12.11.2021 - 12.11.2021 75 °F
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In a new locale, the Buhoma sector of the Bwindi Impenetrable National Park, I am again off to visit gorillas. Coffee at 6:15, breakfast at 7:00, depart at 7:30 for the Park HQ--you saw a photo of that fine structure yesterday. Upon arrival, I see that I am one of twenty tourists, 7 of them women. Happily I see that Jackie & Patrick Nolan, soon to be of Nashville are there as is Robert Johnson of, I think, Myrtle Beach, all three my neighbors at Bwindi Lodge. We are welcomed by a women's group dance similar to what you have seen in days past. We are briefed--again, as in day's past.
We twenty are divided into groups; for me it is six: Jackie, Patrick, Robert, along with a new couple, Kristin & Thomas from Germany. My immediate reaction to Kristin is that she has bitten off more than she will be able to chew. Our Ranger/Guide is also named Robert; our guards are Moses and Tom. We are off to see the Rushegura Family which is large boasting eighteen members.
Two silverbacks, one dominant as you have now taken for granted. This group, Robert tells us, is "over-habituated." To them, humans are second nature, to be anticipated, to be ignored as no more of an intrusion on their lives than the mahogany trees that live in their forest. But, with infants and young ones having been around humans since birth and with adults that are so accustomed to humans, maybe the baby will run up to the human and decide to climb up her leg. That might be a bit much for the mom of the silverback and then there could be trouble: "over-habituation." The Rushegura Group occupies not a territory but a radius. Rather than bicker with humans they instead might experience conflict with another gorilla group that exists within that same radius. They are not territorial so encounters within the radius, while not welcomed, are not unusual.
I hire Jennifer as my porter. She takes custody of my backpack and off we go. As you saw yesterday, the Park Headquarters is at end end of the Ivy Trail. We set off back the way I had come yesterday but only for a few minutes. We met our tracker team: Ben, John and Anthony. Here, I have seen more smiles than anywhere else in Uganda and this group of men is no exception. I feel more at home here, more valued here, more welcome here. The tracker team is at a spot in the Ivy Trail where it is clear that the Rushegura tribe has crossed so off we go, down the hill and across multiple streams (remember it has been raining) in search of them.
Reminiscent of the Habituation trek of two days ago, out come the machetes. There is much mud here and I am self-congratulatory for having chosen to make my muck boots the footwear of choice for this Saturday morning excursion. Jennifer holds my hand when needed as we cross streams, mud holes, up and down hills. These hills, however, are just that: hills. There is no mountain here, no steep slope. The difficulty here is presented by muddy turf, grass hiding holes, roots and low hanging branches. I think that this will be a long slog for Kristin. Just then Robert offers up a hoot-like call that I have come to know is a communication between our team that the object of our trek is near. Only moments later, we are among them. I am shocked at how little time has passed--maybe a half hour.
I can walk to Brookside in about the same time and distance. I am amazed, delighted and enchanted by what occurs during the next hour. I'll let the photos and videos tell most of the story but, as background, I will explain that this encounter, closer than any before (and that is VERY CLOSE) can be divided into two distinct categories. The first is that experience in the open on the Ivy Trail itself where we can see for a great distance and the second is in the jungle immersed in dense foliage and limited sight lines.
Tricky gorillas have lured us from the Ivy Trail down through the previously described terrain and shortly thereafter back to the Ivy Trail. For the Kansas Citians among you, think of the Trolley Trail if it had dense foliage on both sides. The gorillas not only head back there but occupy that friendly space for a considerable time.
Then we are back in the forest, hacking away so that humans can follow where gorillas comfortably bully their way. The forest is no match for them but it presents barriers to us.
The family ignores us, going about business as usual, sometimes passing closely by us with no thought of an "excuse me." It is expected that we should step back and step back we do. However, one can step way back on the Ivy Trail but one cannot maneuver that in the forest.
Our hour is soon up--remember we are limited to one hour with the family. Robert apologizes for ending our time with the Rushegura clan. I somehow think that if B4 and I were in school with a Rushegura and we were alphabetically arranged by the teacher she and I would be separated by one of these magnificent creatures: Raff, Rush, Russ.
Back on the trail, I find that the HQ building is less than a ten minute walk. It is at this moment that a great sadness envelopes me. On this day, B4 could have easily experienced what I just did. She could have handled the terrain and she would have thrilled at what has just enchanted me. Here is my best stab at video to make you understand what has just transpired:
At 12:30, I am privileged to have lunch with Patrick and Jackie. They are a fascinating, insightful, intelligent couple who, should you ever get a chance to know them (and their dogs) you should jump at the chance. We speak of jobs, love, how we met those most important in our lives, their family of dogs and my children, Megan and Cianán, B4's children Edward and now Ashley, my business associates Ryan, Kathy, Tom, Mandy, Thorsten, Pete and all the rest who made this portion of my life a reality and, of course, the life story of the smartest and most capable woman I have ever met. I learn of their jobs and lives and plans.
They, undoubtedly having had quite enough of this old man, head off for a nap and I to the couch in the great room of the lodge to sift through many photographs, and videos which must be trimmed down and then to find the words to help you share this wonderful day.
At 3:20, two young men from the local hospital arrived and tickled my brain with their Covid Test swab. I need negative results to continue my journey into Rwanda. To plagiarize Forest Gump, "Trekking is like a box of chocolates. You never know what you're going to get." It would be a mistake to assume an easy day such as this one--a walk in the park. You might just get a extraordinarily challenging day instead such as I experience on my first trek. And you might get something in between. But, if my experience is any guide, you're going to get something wonderful whether you have to suffer for it or it is handed to you on a platter. "You never know what you're going to get." Today, I received a great gift.
