Chapter 36: Getting to Puntarenas
Short but interesting trip from San Jose to Puntarenas on the Pacific
Chapter 36: Getting to Puntarenas
Monday, March 10, 2025
There is news from Costa Rica this morning. It partially explains the overcast conditions here. Quoting from the English language Tico Times newspaper: "Poás Volcano erupted twice on Sunday, producing a plume that rose 300 meters above the crater, according to the Volcanological and Seismological Observatory (OVSICORI). The activity, classified as a moderate phreatomagmatic eruption, prompted authorities to close Poás Volcano National Park until further notice. OVSICORI reported that the eruptions followed a pattern of heightened activity observed over recent weeks."
Last night's sunset was absolutely spectacular. Now I understand why. The volcano is only twenty miles from here.
Roberth Solis picked me up at 9:00 in his giant Hyundai van at my San Jose Delta Aurola hotel. Arranged through the hotel front desk, my ride with him is only for 60 miles but it takes two hours. For the record, I'm headed east--not north toward the volcano.
The landscape during the drive varied from industrial to mountainous. Lots of big trucks moving various kinds of cargo on the mostly two-lane highway slowed things down. There is a lot of real estate for sale with signs to attract American or Canadian expats.
What should I tell you about the country of Costa Rica? It, along with Panama, is the most stable and prosperous nation in Central America. But, considering that is neighbors are El Salvador, Guatemala, Honduras and Nicaragua (all of which I have previously visited and was relieved to depart from) the isn't saying all that much.
Thankfully, and most often, tourists don't see the dark side and, when you read the next couple of paragraphs, you should keep in mind that there are parts of your own city or town or state or nation that you would never visit--you would fear for your personal safety.
Here's a recent news item, from the Tico Times: "Costa Rica is confronting an escalating security crisis as murders climb year after year, with contract killings increasingly shattering the nation’s reputation for peace. In response, the Security and Drug Trafficking Commission of the Legislative Assembly has approved Bill 24.137, a measure to ban two people from riding together on motorcycles in high-crime zones. The bill, driven by a stark statistic—nearly 25% of the country’s homicides are tied to motorcycle use, according to recent police reports—aims to disrupt a favored method of hitmen and restore public safety." Really?
Yesterday was, as I wrote, International Women's Day. But here, inequality and mysogyny still apparently threatens. Once more from the Tico Times: "Violence against women in Costa Rica has surged to alarming levels in 2025. As of February 26, the Judicial Branch’s Observatory on Gender Violence Against Women reported 10 femicides—killings of women motivated by gender—marking a sharp rise from previous years. These figures underscore a growing crisis and highlight the state’s apparent inaction in ensuring women’s safety." Who could imagine an increase in mysogyny? That's not limited to this part of the world, is it?
In Puntarenas, almost due west to the Pacific coast of Costa Rica, my home for tonight awaits. The Hotel Cayuga is about a mile from the marina where our boat awaits and is not a fancy place. But, then, at $86.85 a night for a double room with breakfast included along with high-speed internet one doesn't expect all that much. https://hotelcayuga.com/en/ One telltale piece of information comes from Patrick who mentioned, "It is rarely full."
Upon arrival, I am pleased to report that the accommodations are first rate. Clean, relatively new with a nice pool encircled by rooms and a friendly staff, the place will do nicely. The surrounding town is not a place for tourists. The main thing I noticed during an afternoon walk was that Puntarenas seems to be driven by fishing. Lots of just caught fish being tossed into ice packed bins from the back of pickup trucks, you get the picture.
Yesterday, I got word of a complication on this trip. In a last minute email, Patrick wrote: "Internet: The boat has fast Starlink, but the data is not unlimited. As such, please do any downloads/uploads in advance of the trip. I normally turn the Starlink on for a few hours each day and ask that people don't stream or download. Just emails, WhatsApp and such. Social media and streaming takes up a lot of data and we don't want to run out!"
If you are a frequent reader of these travel blog updates, you know that I post daily. That may not be possible--at least not if the posts include photographs and video. So, fair warning: If you daily dose of Whaleswim does not arrive when you think it should, don't fret. I'll upload when I can even if it is on a delay. So as to not overwhelm, there will be no departure from the once-a-day uploads, wifi allowing it, delayed a few days or not.
This post comes from a folding chair adjacent to the pool just outside the door to my room. The signal deterioration from out here to in there is significant.
Tomorrow morning, let the adventure begin.
