Chapter 3: Boarding Queen Elizabeth
Deja Vu
17.09.2023 - 17.09.2023 83 °F
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"All Aboard"
Monday, September 18, 2023
We board the 2,081-passenger Queen Elizabeth at Terminal D on the Adossat southern port docks rather at the close-in northern docks. The first week of our trek is outlined here with the track resembling the outline of the ship herself. The Queen Elizabeth is moored in a lineup adjacent to the 520-passenger Deutschland, the 930-passenger Viking Neptune, the brand new 728-passenger Silversea Silver Nova and the massive 6,554-passenger Costa Smeralda. It is clear to see that we are the middle child.
Beginning next month, the city of Barcelona will ban all cruise ships from docking at the northern docks trying to limit exhaust gases from being emitted close to the city center. Smaller ships have traditionally docked there, a boon for their passengers who could walk to La Rambla, the street which is one of Barcelona's most popular tourist attractions. These southern docks can accommodate seven cruise ships which disgorge 3.1 million passengers each year. Looking ahead, a new cruise terminal in Tarragona, Spain, one hour away, is under construction and is designed to be capable of handling the largest mega-ships. But the bottom line is that here, as in other European ports, cruise ship docking is undergoing logistical changes demanded by local populations focused on two main issues: tourist overcrowding and ship exhaust air pollution.
As of last month, all Cunard ships can plug into shore power which means they don't foul the air by operating their engines on idle while in port--a very big deal at a great number of ports of call and, in particular, here in Barcelona.
For anyone new to our blog, the underlined comments are from Beryl. All that about the ships is fine and well, very informative. How about us getting to the ship - do you think that was easy? We started out from Andorra at about 9am. Waze is the most amazing app ever. It did a great job of guiding us turn by turn. Paul had a heavy foot on the gas. He chose to ignore my gentle mention. I would have ignored his stress had we gotten a ticket in Spain which was my fear. We made a couple of wrong turns, however the app corrected us and we didn't lose much time. A word to the wise, the app only works if you put in the right destination, which I did not. I put in Avis car rental return but not the return at the airport. We realized something was wrong when we got into the city of Barcelona. I go into high stress mode when i have to navigate. i have no sense of direction, i know right from left because i can only wink with my left eye. North or south - forget it, don't ask me. Paul stresses when he doesn't know the next turn. So through gritted teeth on both our parts we had to figure it out. I had two iPhones going with Waze at one time and the more stressed i got the more i screwed up. Which phone to listen too? But we did make it. If you have never used Waze, i highly recommend it. Packing too is always for me a hated chore. Too many decisions and too many unknowns. Paul on the other hand has his packed and locked suitcase by the door 4 days before we leave. My suitcase is ready 4 minutes before we leave and sometimes 4 minutes after we were supposed to leave. I'm stressing because it is much warmer here than i realized and packed for. Paul is stressing because he forgot his Irish Spring soap and he has trouble living without it. So now you now more about us than you need to.
Upon boarding, it is clear that Cunard caters to people like us: older. The average age of Cunard passengers is a sprightly 61. I celebrated my 75th birthday three days ago so I am this trip's Biden/Trump/Feinstein/McConnell/Markey/Blumenthal/Durbin/King/Cardin/Risch/Sanders/Grassley, not knowing when to quit.
Across the industry, the average passenger age is a youthful 47. In July, the New York Times reported: "Interest among younger generations who have never cruised is higher than ever, with 73 percent of millennials and Gen X travelers considering a cruise vacation, according to a survey conducted by Cruise Lines International Association, the industry’s trade group. Out of the 4,500 respondents who took their first cruise, 88 percent of millennials and 86 percent of Gen X said they would do it again, according to CLIA. The association projects cruise tourism to reach 106 percent of 2019 passenger volume in 2023."
Our initial impression is that the primary accent on board is British. At lunch, the table next to us were 3 British couples discussing Megan Markle and Prince Harry. Paul and i strongly disagree with each other on that duo. He is the sympathizer. I on the other hand call it as i see it. Megan was no young naive girl when she entered the royal family. Unless she lived under a rock, which clearly she didn't, it is no secret to anyone that the press in the UK will gossip with no holes barred about anyone entering the royal family. Let's recount - Diana was a young, sheltered 19 year old whom the press loved but still had lots of unflattering things to say, Fergie was more worldly and they ate her up too, Camila Parker Bowles knew the drill and they showed no mercy, Kate Middleton was one smart cookie who handled herself like a pro and beat the press at their own game. So, did the worldly actress who had seen a lot of life really not think the press was going to be all over her? I have a bridge for sale to anyone interested. Sorry for digressing and trust me I could say more, I do love the Royals. I will say though, Megan Markle was really good in Suits. If you haven't watched the series yet, I highly recommend it. I was going to stop at the table and put in my two cents about Megan and Harry but I controlled myself. There are Scots here too but nobody can understand a word they say. However, it is worth noting that this afternoon's ship-intercom Captain's safety briefing was conducted in both English and Japanese.
Many of you aren't "cruisers." You rightfully tell us, "We're not sure we would like it." B4 and I say that cruising is just the same as booking a suite at an all-inclusive resort on an island except for the fact that the neighborhood changes every day, there is more to do and the food and service are quite likely very much better. If you like five-star resort hotels, you'll like a cruise. But, a good question to further ask is why would anyone choose--or avoid--Cunard? There are numerous factors to consider as the various cruise lines differ greatly in what they offer, six-star down to (in my estimation) almost no stars. A cruise is not just a cruise; you most often get what you pay for.
Aboard Cunard, The Queen’s Room—the ballroom aboard ship (the largest at sea)—is packed nightly beneath stained-glass windows, glistening chandeliers and a large hardwood dance floor. There is the occasional jazz band performance. Nightly, violinists play quietly in the ship’s lobby adjacent to the grand piano. There are deck games, including croquet, an arcade, line dancing and ballroom dancing classes. You have to look hard to find a passenger who does not observe the dress code on formal nights. That is a far cry from what happens aboard a Carnival cruise. Did you know, however, that Carnival owns Cunard? They do. Marriott owns both the Fairfield Inn hotel chain and the St. Regis chain and they cater to a different clientele at a vastly different price point. So, too, it is with Cunard.
Upon boarding at 12:45 this afternoon and arriving at our suite ten minutes later, we find the Daily Programme lists twelve live musical performances (including two pianists, one guitarist, three singers and a string trio) between boarding and 7:15 and nineteen more from 7:30 until "late." Tucked between all of that is a "sports activity open" on the games deck, a darts tournament at the Golden Lion Pub and table tennis on Deck 9 (forward).
Friends of Bill W. meet at 4:30 in the Admiral's Lounge on Deck 10 (forward) and the LGBTQ+ Social Gathering is in the Commodore Club on Deck 10 (also forward) at 4:45. Non-hetero alcoholics have a difficult choice there. The casino opens at 7:00pm. The young adults meeting point for ages 18 to 25 is in the Yacht Club, Deck 10 (forward) at 9:30. DJ Bobby takes over the Yacht Club at 11:00 and goes until there is nobody left. Then there are the multiple piano bars, cabarets, dancing and more. I'm determined to get Paul to a dance class or two. Thrilled he isn't but he said i am the Queen on this trip, so a dance class it will be.
Your first dilemma when choosing to cruise aboard a Cunard ship is to select your class of service. Britannia class is a very fine "coach" class offering. Britannia Club is akin to "premium economy" on a wide-body aircraft, Princess Grill is business class and Queen's Grill is first class. Prices go up as do you. As on airlines, the vast majority of people sail Britannia which can be an inside cabin, porthole cabin, window, or balcony cabin. Everybody gets the same entertainment menu no matter what they pay.
For the most part, all cruises go to the same places. One exception is that only some ports are large enough to accept the mega-ships like the Smeralda. The small ship lines brag that only they can sail to small ports or locales. No mega-ship will ever be allowed to sail to the Galapagos Islands for example. Where, for example, might the Queen Elizabeth take her older, more economically capable customers?
Queen Elizabeth left Vancouver back on August 17. She stopped in San Francisco, Los Angeles, Cabo (on August 25), and Puntarenas, Costa Rica, before doing a full transit of the Panama Canal on August 31. From there, she continued on to Aruba, Fort Lauderdale and then Hamilton, Bermuda before spending five days crossing the Atlantic to arrive in Funchal, Madeira, Portugal, and finally Cadiz. Then, she came here to Barcelona for us. You could have been on that 32-night voyage in the only remaining unsold cabin I could find six weeks before sailing, an oceanview (porthole), for a mere $2,562 each. That’s $80 a night per person last-minute fare with all the food you can eat and entertainment you want to experience thrown in. That doesn't require an "economically capable" clientele at all--only a flexible one.
By the way, the last-minute feature is interesting. Our friends from Ft. Lauderdale, Harvey & Jolanta, keep travel bags packed and ready by their front door and hold a place on the "call list" when it looks like a cabin will sail unsold. They answer the phone, grab the cabin for a song and are off to the port. They don't care where they are going; why should they?
For that $80 per person per night, in the Britannia Restaurant, the main dining room, you would have dined on food served to linen-dressed tables on gold-detailed plates by white-gloved waiters adjacent to flower vases and silver salt-and-pepper shakers. The centerpiece of the room is a staircase leading to a mezzanine level. Every meal is served in five courses. Adhearing to custom, there is an early seating, a late seating and a relatively newer “open dining” option with a typical reservation system in place. Tables can be private—just for you—or shared with other guests. Its entirely up to you.
Up one step in "class" and cost is the Britannia Club Restaurant for those staying in Britannia Club Balcony staterooms. Each guest has a table reserved for them each night of their voyage which they may visit and whatever time suits them.
Up another step is the Princess Grill for Princess Grill Suite guests. It is designed to mimic an old-line luxury hotel dining room. Like the Britannia Club Restaurant, your table is held for you nightly and you may dine whenever you wish.
The top of the line for Queen’s Grill Suite guests is the Queen’s Grill. Your table is your table each night. Beyond the extensive menu of à la carte dishes, you can order a chef’s specialty dish at breakfast or lunchtime. That could be beef wellington, rack of lamb and more, presented—and sometimes prepared—tableside.
In each of those venues, on “gala” nights, black tie is expected. But what if you didn't bring your tux or evening gown? You can dine at the Lido or King's Court buffets or use room service and nobody would judge you for it. Well, I might.
For Queen's Grill customers, there is a 480-variety wine list with a wide variety of choices up to a 2002 Chateau Lafite-Rothschild, Pauillac bottle at $1,150 or a Petrus for $3,600. Screaming Eagle fans won’t be disappointed ($4,975 per 1995 bottle). However, a nice Prosecco can be had for $42 a bottle or $9 a glass, a Carmen Road Pinot Noir for $59 or New Zealand Petal & Stern Sauvignon Blanc for a mere $42.
As referred to earlier, the typical casual restaurants are also offered: The Lido and Kings Court. Room service is complementary. QE offers the Steakhouse at The Verandah ($45 additional) offering wagyu or black angus beef plus lobster, Scottish langoustines and Atlantic crab and a choice of steak knives. Louisiana short ribs and Iberian pork chops are specialties. Al Fresco dining is offered, weather permitted.
Afternoon tea is served with scones, Devonshire clotted cream and strawberry preserves, cakes and finger sandwiches. For an additional fee, there is an option to upgrade to “Champagne Afternoon Tea.”
Our butler will happily unpack our suitcases—if asked. There are guided gin tastings, watercolor painting classes, bridge tournaments, trivia contests; on and on it goes.
If all that, no matter what the class of service, is appealing, then the "British" vibe aboard Cunard is for you. If not, choose Royal Caribbean or Princess instead. There ships and their cruises and price points are different. Therefore, so too are both their customers and the cruise experience they offer.
As for me, I am right at home on any of the Cunard fleet: The Queen Elizabeth, The Queen Mary 2, The Queen Anne or The Queen Victoria. How do you know they are Cunard ships? They all have distinctive red funnels with black bands and a black top high above their blue hulls.
Tonight in Queen's Grill, Queen B4 has chosen (at lunch ordering in advance) Roast Duck a l'Orange for two, carved at table side with parsnip and apricot croquette and braised red cabbage. Dress is "Smart Casual." Before dinner we had drinks and canapés in the Queen's Grill Lounge. The dinning experience was akin to an evening at the Kansas City River Club. After dinner we had more drinks in the Commodore Lounge and listened to cocktail hour music. From there we went to the 10pm show in the Royal Theatre. After that we went up on one of the decks to join in with the 'Sail Away' party as our ship pulled out of port. What did you all do tonight?
I save one of my tuxedos for tomorrow's first shipboard Gala. It is the Black and White Gala Celebration. It is billed as reminiscent of its origins from Truman Capote's gathering at the New York Plaza Hotel in 1966. How fortunate that I brought a black dress - or 3.
