Chapter 22: Fellow Travellers
Two at a time
The morning was gorgeous with virtually no wind and only a very few billowy clouds. After a bit of a hubbub when one of our iPhones was dropped overboard during boarding we got going. A deal was made with the locals around the port that a reward of $100 would be paid to whoever successfully retrieved the device. We weren't going to find it ourselves as the visibility below Bubbles at the pier is absolute zero. We tried anyway but without a positive result.
A bit after nine, we spotted our first spout. Then, the spout turned into breaches. Captain Onu maneuvered us into position and off the side we all went--perhaps a bit too exuberantly. Our goal would be a less splashy more organized disembarkation. We got to see, far below us (and that only due to Tui's great spotting skills) humpbacks. We had disturbed their peace and the dived below us into the abyss.
Once back aboard, Josh took the blame for our lack of a disciplined entry--even though he hardly deserved it. We will do better next time.
We hung around waiting for these creatures to reappear but they did not.
We cruised to the north where another sighting had been reported. Upon arrival there, we saw five boats ahead of us. There were a dozen or more people in the water from just one of those boats, something that should not be happening, that is apparently prohibited by law and that tends to ruin the situation for others. That gaggle was not alone, however. There were another half dozen from a different boat and still more besides them.
We disembarked and got a glimpse of the whales below us but they seemed to be displeased with the crowd of voyeurs and departed the area.
Later, at lunch, we would decide to avoid a crowd of boats in the future. Perhaps we see fewer whales but those that we do see, we actually get to see.
Arriving back at port, the news there was positive. The iPhone not only had been located and retrieved, it was also operable. Manika was greatly relieved. Sure of better days ahead, none of us--save one perhaps--is pessimistic. We will see what we came for and in a much better way that we have seen so far.
On the way to lunch we stopped by the T and S of Aitutaki jewelry boutique, famous for its local black pearls, handcrafted into bracelets and necklaces by the proprietor. She is, perhaps, the only jeweler on the planet that doesn't take credit cards. i've no cash. B has no trinket as a result. Our next stop was at Steph's Studios-shirt store. Steph does take credit cards. However, virtually all her merchandise says, instead of Aitutaki, Steph's Studio. I didn't find anything to my liking. Lunch was at Manuia's and then we were back to the resort to do whatever we liked, including doing nothing, until we reconvene for dinner. The thinking is that we will return to the Boat Yard--mostly because of the desert offering of fried ice cream.
Aitutaki, translated from the native Cook Islands Maori tongue means “to keep the fire going.” It was first settled “around 1100 years ago” by Ru, the chief navigator of canoes, who allegedly brought his four wives and 24 maidens along with him…to keep the fire going?
The larger “Cook Islands” were so named in 1773 when the infamous Captain James Cook spotted one of these islands. Here on Aitutaki, the first “European” contact was by Captain Bligh and the crew of the Bounty—prior to the famous mutiny.
The overall Cook Island population is shrinking by a little over 2% a year from the current 7,761. Almost everyone speaks English and over half the population is Protestant. Four percent are Mormon. Here on Aitutaki, I am told that there are 1,142 residents by one source and 1,200 residents by another source. In any event, they all know each other and are probably related in some--or many--ways. At lunch we met the only Filipino. She and Olivia--also Filipino--got along famously speaking in their native tongue, something neither of them has much of an opportunity to practice.
Technically the chief of state here is King Charles III. Tourism funds this place. While the real GDP of the United States is around $62,000, here it is a quarter of that. Cook Islanders export fish, ships, surveying equipment, sports equipment and garments to the tune of just over $31 million annually. They import goods valued at $215 million annually, comprised of refined petroleum, ships, cars, plastic products and other food—most of that from New Zealand.
The Current Prime Minister is Mark Brown who, barely less than one year ago visited the White House where President Joe Biden, quoting from the official White House transcript of their meeting, inexplicably said, “We’re both from Baltimore. (Laughter.) That’s a long story.” Brown appeared mystified. Nobody has offered much in the way of an explanation for that remark.
The Amuri Field airstrip I flew in on is virtually next door to the resort and was built during World War II by American contractors, Sverdrup and Parcel. 850 Americans joined with New Zealand forces stationed here in 1942. Aitutaki was one of six Pacific islands chosen to form air routes—referred to as “The Milk Run” from Hawaii to Australia. When it appeared that the war would not extend this far south the U.S. force was cut to 12 men to keep the air field open and provide weather reports. We pass by it daily on the way to our boat.
By we, I mean LeVel 33 Micro-Brewery owner Martin. On the top floor of the Marina Bay Financial Centre, his brewery is the "highest in the world." You can come to Singapore and get high with Martin and Olivia. Here is a video of the installation of their brewing tanks: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ocMC5YqSkzA Olivia tells me their waygu beef cheeseburger is to die for. She also works at LeVel 33--her title is "Manager of First Impressions."
Josi is a strategist with a unique niche: she prepares students for standardized tests getting them to completely rethink their approach to that intimidating task. Josi works remotely--including from here in Aitutaki--to get these kids into prestigious institutions.
I mentioned Manika earlier. She works with Josh (and Patrick Dykstra, my Dominica host) at Picture Adventure Expeditions and resides in Mumbai, India. We compared Ambani wedding notes at length. Recently a journalistic research person in London, she has decided to leave the office for the great outdoors. I love Picture Adventure Expeditions website: (https://pictureadventure.com). From the home page you choose 1. Animal; then 2 Time of Year; and finally 3. Trip Type. What could be simpler.
Josh Barton, my convivial host, is described on their site this way: "Joshua is an avid underwater photographer and expedition leader based in Bangalore, India. Joshua has been published in over dozens of newspapers and magazines over the years, including National Geographic, International Wildlife, Better Photography, the Washington Post and others. Joshua keenly explores the coasts and islands of the world for new locations and great sea life encounters." He also hosts fine lunches on his deck.
Captain Onu pilots Big Bubbles, our 41 foot purpose built whale watch/whale swim/dive boat. Onu translates to "turtle." He was a part of producing USA’s TV series "Survivor Cook Islands." Mate Tui, a giant of a man, brought his four-year-old son along one day--as a good luck charm. Mate Rani did not fail to offer a smile a minute no matter what was happening onboard Bib Bubbles. He spent a good deal of time on the roof, spotting whales and pounding on the roof over Uno's head to get his attention when needed. The problem with Rani is that he may or may not show up. So far it is "May: 1" and "May Not: 2" These three are gems. More at http://www.diveaitutaki.com.
Oh, let me not forget Roman who again joined us today. A cuter kid could not be found on this island.
