Chapter 16: Maldives Republic
The Vacation portion of this trip
16.09.2022 - 16.09.2022 87 °F
Chapter 16: Maldives
September 16, 2022
For those reading this series who misunderstand and think this is a vacation for us, let us make something clear. This is a work trip. However, we are squeezing a vacation into the middle of the journey and it begins today. We are off on a four-hour non-stop from Dubai to Malé, The Republic of Maldives.
A double chain of 26 atolls comprising 1,192 coral islands, The Maldives is an endangered ocean paradise that lies almost 500 miles southwest of India and Sri Lanka. I had intended to visit here when I was recently in Sri Lanka but COVID travel restrictions made that impossible.
Islands spread out as they are, the descriptions “most dispersed country,” “lowest elevation of any country” and “smallest Asian country” are garnished with the title of “second least populated Asian country” and “third most endangered country” due to flooding accounted for by climate change.
Spanning the Equator, the September temperatures here average a high of 86oF and a low of 77oF. It is constantly humid. A December, 2004, tsunami followed an Indian Ocean earthquake and devastated these islands. As nearly as I can tell, no such catastrophic weather or weather related event has occurred here since.
We are reminded that it is an offence to import the following items into Maldives: explosives, weapons, firearms, ammunition, pornographic material, materials deemed contrary to Islam including 'idols for worship' and bibles, pork and pork products, and alcohol. We were going to bring a bottle of champagne that we had been gifted but were advised not to. Alcoholic drinks are available but only on resort islands. We are headed to one of those.
Leaving from the Dubai Airport--a virtual shopping haven where B4 looks at eyeglass frames and the line at the Apple Store stretches around the corner, we fly into Velana International Airport across the bridge from the city of Malé, the capital and most populated city in the Maldives where 143,000 people live. Known as "King's Island,” ancient royal dynasties ruled from here.
They are proud of their KFC store. The nation has been through a Buddhist period followed by an Islamist period and then a colonial period culminating in independence in 1968 when it became a republic. As often happens with new democracies, politics are problematic. Past presidents often go to jail. And, as often happens in predominately Islamic societies, “When deciding matters on which the Constitution or the law is silent, judges must take into account Islamic “Shari'ah" law.
As visitors, we note that tourism got its start here in 1972 and today accounts for over a fourth of GDP and ninety percent of government tax revenues. Islam is the official religion here; the practice of any other religion is forbidden. They speak Dhivehi.
We are told that since the Russian/Ukrainian War embargo, lots of mega-yachts belonging to Russian oligarchs are moored here so we are on the lookout for them. We don't see any. Even so, U.S. Navy ships have called on the port here “regularly.” Interestingly, the U.S. does not have an embassy or consulate here but does offer those services from the U.S. Embassy in Sri Lanka, 600 miles distant—where they have their hands more than full given the economic and political crisis underway in that country. (If you followed my blog covering my recent trip there, you know that was brewing while I was there and subsequently turned into a virtual country meltdown.) Our flight from Dubai, unusual for Emirates, stops here before continuing on to Colombo, Sri Lanka.
From the air, you get a sense of how this place is laid out. Island after island, some built up with resorts and some too small for that.
Once in the Maldives, there are three main ways to travel between the many islands: domestic flight, seaplane or boat. We are met at the airport and then transferred to a boat for a fifteen minute ride to our hotel.
Why The Maldives? It is easy. Back in Chapter 2, we wrote of the amazing airline that is Emirates. If you live in Dubai, you can fly to almost every major city on this planet non-stop and in style. So, Emirates made this choice easy. We had two island options; here and The Seychelles which is only a half-hour further away. To oversimplify, The Maldives are better for a laid back experience while The Seychelles offer the lure of adventure. For the next couple of days, the former is a greater lure.
On this trip, we were aboard Emirates 777 registration number A6-EGO which is 10.5 years old and showing its age. The onboard entertainment system was clunky and went down twice. B4 finally gave up on her movie and it took me the entire 3:45 flight to watch a 1:45 film. Worse, the FAs on board didn't seem to care. Not Emirates service from my experience.
As we approach the Maldives, out the window, one gets a sense of what awaits. Atolls capable of holding tourist-friendly accommodations are so outfitted. It looks marvelous. We are able to see and understand what the geography of this place is all about. As a significant point of contrast, the airport in Dubai is all about shopping--the Apple store was mobbed. The airport here in Male is more about letting you know that they have that KFC store. As always, however, any trepidation one may have upon arrival is assuaged when somebody approaches you and calls you by name, welcomes you and offers to assist with your baggage. Assuaged, of course, if you are sure they are legit. Ono Ono is legit as he leads us across the roadway to the docks for our shuttle boat ride to our home for the next three nights: the just opened, spanking new Hilton Amingiri Resort.
More on that tomorrow.
