Chapter 14: Historic Dubai
There is precious little of it...
14.09.2022 - 14.09.2022 106 °F
Chapter 14: Historic Dubai
September 14, 2022
Don't we look comfortable and refreshed on the boat in the photo below? Well, don't believe everything you see - or read for that matter. Oh yes, what you are reading is accurate but it misses the drama or better said comedy of errors that took us to that lovely boat with no railing and no butler. The truth is we, at least I, was happy just to sit so I didn't fall over from the heat and we didn't know exactly where that boat was taking us.
There isn’t much opportunity to see what the British left in late sixties, before the discovery of gold and oil here. But, by taking a short dhow boat ride across Dubai Creek—costing about a quarter each, one can experience old Dubai, the Al Fahidi Historical Neighborhood, and head for the Souks and perhaps a bit of haggling. Technically, these ferry boats are called “abras.” Abra means “to cross.” There are about 150 boats that run every few minutes for this five-minute trip.
Here are traditional houses, minarets and wind towers offering a stark contrast to the glass towers across the creek. It appears that most of this is restored rather than original. Once home to a thriving fishing fleet and pearl divers, you can find the Al Fahidi Fort here. Built in 1781, it is the oldest building here. Even so, You can try to imagine that past from here but, frankly, it’s not easy.
Souks are traditional markets. There is a Gold Souk offering every kind of gold jewelry. Tiny shops line the narrow streets—similar to what a traveler will find across Asia. There’s a Spice Souk where you can buy a packet of zaatar, a thyme-based herb mix that is a staple here. Souvenirs of Dubai are more “legit” and less costly here. The vibe is typical for this sort of thing: "Where are you from?" "Hey, Lady Gaga," "Hey Donald Trump" "Welcome Back" "Pashmina?" "Spices?" Oh; and it is hot as hell in the sun; around 110o or better. The good news is that the humidity isn't noticeable.
The Al Shindagha Musem is here along with the Saruq Al-Hadid Archaeological Museum with Iran Age exhibits excavated not far from here. There is also the 1896 official residence of Sheikh Saeed Al Maktoum, the grandfather of today’s ruler. We skipped that, probably shouldn't have, but we did. It's hot; 106o this afternoon.