Chapter 10: Nordfjordeid
Last Day Norway
07.28.2023 - 07.28.2023 63 °F
View Fjords on paulej4's travel map.
Chapter 10: Nordfjordeid
Friday, July 28, 2023
This is not a cruise that you book for the ports; it is booked to see the fjords that exist on the way to the ports. No worry. We love life on board the ship, and Silver Dawn, with an occasional hiccup, has proven to be up to our high standard. One thing is inexplicable on that front, however. Cruising the fjords themselves offers superb scenery--and that is missed during the night and early morning when one is arriving. When one is departing, it is time to clean up and prepare for the evening festivities aboard ship so many miss the scenery again.
River cruises do not so suffer because, in our limited experience, you are awake when you see the scenery pass you by during the day. Those boats are tied up overnight. On a cruise, you're tied up during the day and moving overnight. That's an observation; not a complaint.
This final day is at Nordfjordied, during the 7th century, home of the Viking King Audbjörn Frøybjørnsson, who ruled the kingdom of Firda. He was killed by Harald Hairfair who was on a conquest to unite Norway under one rule. Ultimately, that lead to the unification of Norway. As an aside, the driver of our tour coach today was also named "Harald" and he obeyed this sign to the letter. "Over fartsgrensa?" is Norwegian for "Over the speed limit?" I would have thought that "fartsgrensa" would be something more esoteric than "speed limit."
The “ied” at the end of Nordfjord refers to Eygis—or eid—and means “the inner most part of a fjord.” Nord is North. So, this is the inner most part of the north fjord. Both this port and this fjord are remarkably unremarkable after yesterday's fjord home run.
Our morning excursion begins too early--8:00--and along the way via motorcoach and local electric ferry, we arrived at the obligatory museum (Nordfjord Folks Museum) with open air exhibitions and lots of historical markers and old—very old—buildings. Taking her cue from real estate agent titan James Landrum, B4 promptly sizes up which could be fixed up and flipped.
The adjacent museum speaks to history, one lesson of which holds true today. The sign is clear: you can hire four servant girls for the price of two servant boys. Given the fact that pay equity still lags inexplicably and inexcusably behind the times, one wonders.
Up the road is the white-stoned 12th century medieval Vereide Church. It’s a long stone church which will seat 460 parishioners and is also used as a local polling place during election time. The only part that is “original” is the soapstone baptismal font, once lost and later found—perhaps like many who were baptized upon it.
A grey cat is busy caressing a 124-year-old headstone--one of the few not removed to be lined up next to a rock wall. Weird. With the requisite nine lives could it be that, when first a kitten, this animal was associated with Rakel in some way? Of course not. But, then again, the inscription "elsket og savnet" translates to "loved and missed." The most recent burial we spotted was from just about a century ago. Cats routinely live to be 18; 9 X 18 = 162... Share your thoughts on this.
I am reminded that, years ago, on a trip to Kilkee, County Claire, Ireland, with my late sister and nieces and nephews, we arrived at the cemetery where my great grandfather was interred. We looked and looked and looked for his headstone and, failing to find it, went to the caretaker, (the sexton). He asked, "Was your great grandfather rich or poor?" We replied that he was poor. "Well, then, he either didn't have a grave marker or, more likely, is buried down below somebody who is over him and his headstone is down there with him or was lost." Who knew? We are unable to resolve why the Vereide markers are lined up along the wall. One possible explanation is that graves were moved during road construction. That's plausible due to the fact than an ancient burial mound only a mile or so away was split in two to keep the highway from having to be rerouted.
Back to the ship, we determined to skip this afternoon's excursion in favor of a final massage for my girl. Many of the excursions on this route have
been an afterthought. We are often torn between an excursion and staying on the ship. On the one hand, we're someplace we may ever be again so we feel we need to get out and see and learn about the country which we visit. On the other hand, most of the excursions are not amazing and we thoroughly enjoy being on the ship. Why you ask; because the ship is a floating hotel and resort with tons to do and folks with whom to chat. Everyone has a story and most of them are interesting.
We take a bit of time between lunch and her spa appointment to begin packing up. Our luggage must be in the hall outside our suite by 11:00pm. It will be waiting for us shoreside upon disembarkation tomorrow morning. We would normally avoid that process but we have one checked bag on this trip--along with our two roll-aboards--making it cumbersome for us to handle all of that tomorrow morning without assistance.
We weigh anchor just after 6:00pm with 158 nautical miles to go via the Norwegian Sea to Bergen where we berth at 5:30am. Waves on the open seas will be calm with swells of less than two feet.
We're waitlisted for the one remaining specialty restaurant we have yet to experience: Kaiseki. The Japanese menu features sushi, sashimi and other raw Asian-inspired items. It's an extra $40 per person. Should our reservation not clear, we will be fine. Frankly we don't think last night's Silver Note experience can be beat. Truth be told, another fancy dinner is the last thing we need. We do though have plans to meet two couples we've gotten to know at 9:30 in the piano bar. Mark is playing and it's always fun. Back to reality tomorrow. There is no piano bar at 400 W 49th Terrace apt 2116 and we will miss it.
