7/20 Rollin' on the River
Proud Beryl Keep On Burnin'
07/20/2019 - 07/20/2019 85 °F
View RussRaff to Portugal on paulej4's travel map.
After casting off at 6:30am, in cool temperatures that given yesterday's oppressive heat I cannot explain, we sail west along the Douro taking center stage in the gigantic amphitheater created by the terraced quintas (vineyards) that soar over both sides of the river. Glimpses of vintners tending their vines are rare at this early hour but at least one was grooming the aisles between plant rows as we pass. It has been very hot during the day when only the grapes themselves are at work.
After breakfast, most passengers disembark for a scenic drive up to the little village of Favaios, and make their way to one of the last traditional bakeries in the Douro River Valley to discover how bread was made in the old days and how it tasted with a sample fresh from the oven. They visit the local museum for a wine-and-bread repast, and explore a typical Portuguese village "not yet discovered by the masses." Then they continue for lunch at Quinta da Avessada, a rustic centuries-old winery in the heart of the Douro Wine District (a UNESCO World Heritage Site), and sample some local varieties of port, such as moscatel.
By the way, at breakfast, Becky presented me with yesterday's much anticipated gift she acquired for me--that one I was sure would be coming. I'm thrilled. The funny thing is that it is a small jar of preserves exactly the same as those available on our table. The coincidence is uncanny but, as always, it is the thought that counts.
After having had such a wonderful experience aboard Helgrim yesterday, B4 and I determine that the best course for us today is to avoid a 6.5 hour excursion and again remain comfortably ensconced on the sun deck in “our spot” under the port-side aft-portion of the canopy there. We claim our corner early, just in case others decide to remain aboard as well. As it turns out, we are again the gang of eight as our sailing partners remain onboard as well.
The ride is sublime.
As we are "rollin' on he river," for some inexplicable reason, my head fills with the voice of Tina Turner:
Proud Beryl
To be sung to the tune of Proud Mary
Got a big job in my City
to “make a day” every night and day
Never took a minute for sleepin’
worryin’ ‘bout what margins might’ve been
She’s a big wheel that keeps on turning
Proud Beryl keeps on burning
now she’s rollin', rollin', rollin'
Rollin' on the river
Sold a lot of plates at Macy’s
Pushed a lot of stones down in New Orleans
But she never saw my side of Kansas City
Until she hitched a ride with this riverboat king
You know she’s a big wheel who keeps on turning
Proud Beryl keep on burning
she’s rolling, rolling, rolling yeah
Rolling on the river
With me.
Just before 8:00, a bit earlier than planned, we dock at Pocinho at the same spot where we were a couple of days earlier. On this voyage, remember, we go up the Douro and then down the Douro because our trip is, essentially, Porto to Porto. From here, our shipmates did their thing.
We then sail onward to Régua, transiting two locks en route. Here are videos passing under a low--very low--bridge, transiting a lock, Captain Manuel Alves Point-Of-View in command, lowering the canopy to achieve a low profile for a bridge or a lock and a conversation between Jim and Captain Alves in the wheelhouse. Enjoy. There's some good stuff in here.
Our excursion-returning shipmates rejoined us down river at Tavora at 3:00pm. Of all the pleasant days I have lived, this one would rank in the top tier. For those who went on the excursion this morning I will do a great service: I will not tell them tales of how wonderful our cruise this day has been. As humans, we are often faced with looking back with regret at decisions made, roads taken. Today, there is only thankfulness for the decision made, luckily, because I could not have known how lovely it would be. As our shipmates filter up to the sun deck, I overhear them raving about their day and how wonderful the bread was and that the meat at lunch was so tender. I am happy for them that they had such a day--maybe as fine as ours. Days on vacation are not a competition and I have no interest in one-upmanship.
As we enjoy the view, it is momentarily blocked as the Viking Torgil, going upriver, arrives to perform what amounts to a "touch-and-go" along our port side. Their bartender shouts over to our bartender about the possibility of a ginger beer loan. Her reply was that she had just borrowed some from Viking Ostrid herself. The touch became go; I don't know if anything else was exchanged below our top deck.
Then, at 3:30 on the dot, we untie and once again head downriver.
We are docked overnight at Régua, our very own Tranquility Base. Unfortunately, the nemesis of being tied to another ship means our base is also our cave.
After another of our Nights of the Round Table, I offer a toast near to--within a half hour or so--the precise moment, 50 years earlier, that the Apollo 11 lunar module touched down on the moon. We all remember the feeling of amazement, wonder and pride. Little did we know how important velcro would become and how much easier it would be to get toddlers back into the shoes they had kicked off even when warned not to. Megan?
