7/18 Barca D’Alva, Portugal

Castelo Rodrigo

07/18/2019 - 07/18/2019 90 °F
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We awaken while sailing east along the Douro. Bookended by sheer rock walls and vineyard terraces we pass beneath graceful bridges and trestles and traverse river locks at the Valeira and Pocinho Dams. It is funny what a difference a day makes; we don’t scurry to the sun deck for the lock passage as it has now, too quickly, become routine.

Our gang of eight gathers for breakfast and swaps stories of old-time Kansas City families (Pendergast and Katz), the Plaza, Allen’s drive in, downtown, Troost, Paseo and more. It is a leisurely morning with nothing on the schedule save sailing up the Douro. We—along with half the ship’s compliment of guests—on the sundeck for the Pocinho Lock and Dam. “I don’t think it could be any nicer,” says B4 as she settles in with, wait for it: her book. For a few hours at least, business takes the back berth.

There is an 11:15 live demonstration in The Lounge presented by Executive Chef Peter: how to make Pastel de Nata. Amazingly, B4 skips it to enjoy the respite on the roof.

We stop at Pocinho to disembark passengers who have booked an excursion which includes--for them--a picnic. The rest of us (the vast majority) stay aboard Helgrim for lunch and then our "included tour" to Castelo Rodrigo. It is a 40 minute coach ride away.

Barca d’Alva, adjacent to the Spanish border is our post-lunchtime destination. Sleepy, the village is snail-paced save for when the likes of us arrive. The Almirante Sarmento Rodrigues Bridge soars offering great views. Olives and almonds are grown here upon rocky terraces. In the village, steep narrow streets divide 16th-century facades and Portuguese Manueline-style windows.

Jewish heritage appears along Sinagoga Street, a remembrance of the Jewish community established by refugees from the Spanish Inquisition. A different remembrance occurs when we spy a cross carved into the granite outside a doorway. Another doorway named Mikve, "the cistern allowed a very important ritual bath for followers of the Jewish religion. Among other purposes it ws used for absolutions by the Jewish women after menstruation. They could not have sexual intercourse for 7 days and before having this ritual bath. According to their customs or religious traditions Jewish men also used the Mikve to purify themselves, especially on the eve of the Jewish New Year, the Kippour. However, religion did not impose this practice on all men. If one was converted to Judaism there was a full immersion of the body just as it was usual after death." TMI?

Our guide points out that when a Jew converted to Christianity, this sign was carved to commemorate what was, by most accounts, a forced conversion. Farther along the way, we come across a different inscription: It is Hebrew for Psalm 34:23. In English: "The Lord redeems the soul of his servants. All who trust in him will not be condemned." The juxtaposition is eerie.

The Guidebook says of the Church of Castelo Rodrigo, Historic Village of Portugal, "Basis of a power haunted by the Arab invasion and by the mighty Spanish neighbor, the church of Castelo Rodrigo is a testimony of eight hundred years of a troubled religious, cultural and social history."

Up the hill is the ruin of the Cristovao de Moura Palace.

There are four still-standing circular towers and turrets with collapsed tops. A crumbling square tower peers on the North. Entry doors remain: to the East is the Door of the Sun and to the North is The Door of the Alverca. The Door of Betrayal--Traição--is to the South.

In the remainder of the village are whimsical spots, made more so by an adventurous and sometimes off-kilter mind. What one reads in a sign is enhanced when one can edit it.

En route home, we marvel at the high-maintenance hillsides revoted to harvesting G-A-O: Grapes, Almonds and Olives. Vast terraces, trees or vines perfectly spaced, irrigated by drip tubes (we think), all encompassing hillsides and valleys. On one side of the vista is Spain; on the other Portugal. It is a beautiful view to be sure.

Returning to Helgrim, a drawback of river cruising becomes even more clear. We are tied up adjacent to Viking Hemming. This is the view from our stateroom. To exist in this room, one must close the blackout curtains so Suite 312 quickly becomes Cave 312. Not good.

When in a lock, the view is blocked but only for a few minutes while we rise in the lock. Being tied up to another ship whose balcony rail is separated from your balcony rail by 12 inches is a problem akin to having an inside cabin on a cruise ship.

Thank heaven, they sail away.

There is, before dinner, a VES-only Cocktail Party. VES is the “Viking Explorer Society” which is that group “who has sailed with Viking before.” I am always amazed at cruise lines, airlines, hotels and other hospitality organizations that exclude first-time guests from privileges no matter how small or insignificant that might cause them to say, “to heck with this organization; if I’m not good enough for your special event, I won’t come back.” On the other hand, as a frequent guest and special-tier-member at some of those very businesses, I revel in the exclusive benefits they toss my way while simultaneously denying them to others who have not shown past patronage or loyalty. The only conclusion I can support is that I support all amenities that are offered to me and resent all those that aren’t.

Dinner is at 7:00. The food has been quite good even if the service is slightly less so. The service problem here is that everyone arrives at the dining room at once and they are instantly overwhelmed. If I am the first to order something I am amazed at how quickly I am accommodated but if I am not the first I find that even getting the order taken takes regretfully long. Best to just get used to it as there is little reason to allow such a small thing to stress me in such a potentially stress-free setting.

The entertainment tonight is a “Spanish Folk Show” featuring Escencia Flamenca. On-board entertainer Luis then takes over with his own blend of DJ-ing and piano playing. He is very good at what he does. But we opt to retire.

No night can top the eight-top, round-table, front-of-the-dining-room table where each person contributes as he or she determines to an invigorating conversation about things important. Thanks to B4, Jim, Becky, Nancy, Allan, Ward and Donna; I don't often find a group where each opines while others absorb and, in the process, all benefit from wisdoms imparted, nuance noted and prediction cautiously offered. There is no need for better when best is at hand.